16 May
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| Ruapehu |
Today we got the bus from Palmerston North to Whakapapa Village via Turangi. Excited from the moment we boarded, our tummies full of bacon and egg foccacia. Before we set off one poor lady woke up and was told she'd missed her connection to Napier. Luckily there was another bus that could help out. Our bus was the big and fancy kind with an onboard toilet! We set off filled with much excitement, then after ten minutes I promptly fell asleep. The big bus wound its way from Palmerston North through Feilding, Halcombe, and Taihape, stopping for a loo break at the Flat Hills Cafe, where we got pineapple lumps and
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| A very active Tongariro |
a cute billy goat tried to ram us through a fence. The bus driver joked that our lollies were fattening and I said that we would hopefully walk them off over the next four days. The bus continued down the Desert Road, a very barren area indeed, the road blocked in by a live firing range and army training areas on either side, all part of the Waiuru Military Camp. We passed the museum with WWII era tanks and old cannons pointing at you as you drive past. We even saw a squad in full kit running across the desert in the shadow of massive national grid power lines, bringing power up from Benmore. Then shrouded peaks emerged and we saw Ruapehu, its top blown open looking to all the world like it had just erupted (aside from the thick snow). In the distance the driver pointed out Ngauruhoe and Tongariro. Ngauruhoe looked like a model volcano, perfect cone, straight sides and huge!
We changed bus in Turangi and got onto a wee van sized coach. Although thhe bus arrived late for our change over the coach was still there (no need for all my fretting and pants wetting). We even had time to go to the sports shop and pick up our personal locator beacon. Then the coach set off for Whakapapa Village stopping at a lookout where the driver let us out to take photos of Tongariro with clouds of steam rising from the crater. We were greeted at Whakapapa by a big old ugly Chateau which may once have been nice but now looked oddly out of place in the surrounding lush native bush of the national park. We departed the bus, visited the visitor centre and set off uphill to begin our tramp! Then set off back downhill realising we had gone the wrong way... Not the best start. We also saw group of high school aged kids with packs and bleeding knees running up, down , and all over the place. A lady told us they were doing the Sir Edmund Hillary Challenge, two days of tramping, climbing and running over 60km. Props to them I say!
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| Me and Ruapehu |
Going up a side road we finally found the rack and set off at 5.30pm. Wandering along in the shadow of three volcanoes and marveling at their beauty in the setting sun. The track of sandy ash was pretty hard going, especially as it got dark after a few minutes of walking. Much of the track must be washed away over and over again. It created some cool looking formations but also big deep holes to fall into. We carried on as the sunset turned into a clear night sky. Every time we stopped it was so still and silent and the star so bright. It took a while to reach the hut as our going was slowed by the terrain but we finally
reached it in pitch dark, much to the surprise of the people already there. Chats with some Kiwis and Canadians and a dinner of spinach pasta cabonara, sausages, and jelly. Then off to sleep and rest our tired eyes. The walk took 2 hours 30 min out of an estimated 3 hours so we made good time. Hoping to get a good sleep before the hardest day tomorrow, over the top! xxx
17 May
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| Ready to go! |
Today started well with a nice clear sky and early morning. Cereal and Up & Go for breakfast then we packed up to head off. For the next wee while up until the highest point of the track we would be doing part of the crossing. This was evident straight away, the track looked like a nicely manicured garden path and later boardwalk. There were also many people with sneakers and plastic bags wandering along, a bit faster than us with our heavy packs. We walked beside an orange stream and over countless volcanic lahars from Ngauruhoe which wound their way all
over the mountain like great black rivers of rock. Quickly we reached the bottom of the pass and began our ascent up the 'Devil's Staircase'. And a devil it was, every flight turning my quads to useless lumps of jelly. Despite this we climbed quite fast with stunning views down the valley behind us and up to the volcanic peas on either side. Foolishly making the fatal mistake that the top of where we could see was indeed the top of the pass. It wasn't! At this stage our nice sunny day began to close in, mist rolling over the tops of the mountains. The next section was super flat for a long time, and the fog got so dense we had trouble finding the next track marker at times. Then a sign telling us we were at 1590 metres and we still had to climb to 1890m.
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| Views back down the valley |
Said climb began steadily enough then became steeper and more treacherous, the ground covered in loose sand, small rocks that rolled easily underfoot, and slippery clay. The wind and fog were now vicious as we stumbled along a ridge line, totally exposed to the elements, it jst seemed to go up and up and up. Thinking back I'm sure it didn't take as long as it felt to reach the
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| Emerald Lakes |
highest point at Red Crater, but the freezing wind blasting fog and rain into our faces and threatening to push us over the edge and down a steep crater face made it stretch out endlessly. Eventually we passed the highest point and began a difficult descent down sand-dune ash. We both fell over as you were never sure if there were rocks under the ash that were going to roll. We carried on down and around the edge of Red Crater, catching glimpses down the side into its dormant depths. The smell of sulfur was strong despite the roaring winds. Slowly the weather improved as we got lower, the track becoming a bit more sheltered. The next junction we branched away from the Crossing towards Oturere Hut only 1.5
hours away. The poor day walkers in their inadequate jackets and shorts scurried down in the opposite direction. After hitting a bit of a wall on the
last uphill leg, mostly from the cold, I was glad to know it was all downhill from here (in the best possible way). The fog parted as we descended, passing the striking Emerald Lakes, pumice mountains, and the remains of ancient lahar twisted into tortured sculptures. Much sand and grit in our shoes did not slow us down in our trek hutwards. Then after many humps and hillocks, and thinking 'it must be over the next rise' I spotted a sign coming out of the mist. Exclaiming my excitement we both looked up and after a few more steps a silhouette appeared out of the mist. What had looked like a sign was in fact the window frame of
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| Oturere appearing from mist |
Oturere Hut! Yay! It was 1pm and the day had taken us the expected 5 hours, including breaks. Not two minutes after we arrived it began to pour with rain, we had perfect timing. Time for lunch, it had been too cold to stop on the track for much more than a muesli bar or apple. Pitas, hummus, cheese and salami filling our tummies, we tried to get the fire going but as we expected the gas was off. Resigned we cuddled up in
our sleeping bags to get warm and had a well deserved nap. Then dinner, after we were nice and warm, of what was meant to be teriyaki chicken but turned into tuna poos on noodles. Luckily the jelly made up for it somewhat. Another tramp, this time through a running riverbed and up a mountain to find the toilets, my only memory of which is a rather brisk wind on the nether regions! The rain continues rather heavily but hopefully will exhaust itself overnight and be better tomorrow. Fingers crossed. Nighty night now and sweet tramping dreams xxx
18 May
After waking several times during the night to find it still pouring down, I was relieved to find a clear blue sky
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| Ngauruhoe sunrise |
greeting us in the morning. Ruapehu, Ngauruhoe and Tongariro all visible once again. We opened the door to let a bit of the sunshine in and had an Up & Go. We then went for a wee wander in the surrounds, discovering that with the storm gone the toilet was but a few metres from the hut. We visited a side track which we'd attempted the night before but had only found curtains of fog. This time the track led around the side of a hill and suddenly an immense thundering waterfall came into view, its river snaking down the valley floor. The spray from the falls was flying into our faces and the sun shining, and it all felt rather lovely. But soon the clouds began to roll in again and we
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| Red Crater we walked over yesterday |
decided to set off asap after some crushed cornflake remains. All packed up with our nags feeling lighter, we
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| Oturere Hut and Ruapehu |
were off. The first stretch was a breeze over undulating sand dunes, the pumice and volcanic rock becoming less obvious. The plant life also noticeably changed with actual bushes, grasses, moss, and even beech trees popping up. Unfortunately this section was made somewhat tougher by the pain in my left hip joint which began yesterday at the top of Red Crater and was becoming progressively more difficult to ignore. I now believe I pulled something in my hip as every with every step the forward movement of the hip sends a sharp spike of pain through the joint. Woe me! We soldiered on and eventually began our descent off the volcanic wasteland into lush beech forest. Crossing a most picturesque stream, we plowed along through the far more familiar tramping
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| Waterfall from afar |
surrounds. The track sloped upwards ad upwards, the kind of gradient that leaves you exhausted after 20 metres but inevitably continues for many hundred. Further crippled by gradient vs hip I was rather slow and hobbling, making poor Rick stop and wait at every turn. Eventually the trees thinned and the Bellbird calls spurred me to the summit. Out on the exposed ridgeline we were rewarded with 360 degree views of the valleys and mountains, over forest and desert. Too cold to admire for long we stretched sore backs, had a spot o cashews and headed down he other side. Jokingly we discussed how nice it would be to see the hut around the corner, and lo! It soon appeared nestled in a valley of beech. The final jog to the hut came easily and we
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| Familiar beech forest |
arrived at Waihohonu Hut. It is immense and luxuriant! Built in 2010 it looks more like a show home,
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| Waihohonu plus one adventurer |
massive windows, huge stone firewall, log burner! All very new and flash indeed. We popped the fire on and hung up some gear to dry before heading out again on two side trips from Waihohonu. The first was Ohinepango Springs which was 20 minutes away through some amazing sand formations. The bridge, crystal clear water and bright green weed made the river look a part of a botanical garden. We followed it upstream for a short time, passing Whio and paradise duck (some of the first wildlife we'd actually seen). We found the origins of the river bubbling up from under an ancient lahar from Ngauruhoe. It was a beautiful area and the sun came out of hidng while we played pooh sticks and drank the crystal water. The next side trip was off to Old Waihohonu Hut built 1904
for local trampers and skiers. Still standing it is the oldest existing mountain hut in New Zealand. Tiny and
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| Ohinepango oasis |
red, the men's quarters on one side complete with bunks and a large fireplace. the separate ladies quarters on the side only equipped with bunks and a mirror. They must've been very hardy women! Made with corrugated iron and with pumice insulation, it was used primarily by the Ruapehu Skiing Club in the early 1900's. It still has many names carved into the door and bunks, the earliest I could find were from 1920 and 1911! Over 100 years ago, its amazing to imagine all that has passed in one little room. We returned to the new hut and
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| Old Waihohonu built 1904 |
got indoors just as it started to rain, more good timing. Its now clouded over again for the night as I write this
in candle light. Hopefully it clears again for the morning. An early start to get the 5 and a half hours out to
Whakapapa by lunchtime, in time for our bus home. It feels like this trip has gone rather fast and I will be sad to be leaving such a stark and striking area tomorrow. On the other hand a warm shower and proper bed are calling! Tea time now, rice, sausages, cheese and veges. Then of course the compulsory jelly to finish. Prayers to the weather Gods for tomorrow. how nice to have a fire and warm bed tonight, it is indeed the perfect last night. A game of cards then hopefully a deep sleep to rest wee old legs. Bon Appetit and sweet dreams xxx
19 May
Prayers were unanswered as we woke to bucketing rain outside our wee window in Waihohonu at 7am. We
had no choice but to leave at 8am if we were to walk the 5 and a half hours back to Whakapapa in time for the bus at 1.50pm. A hasty muesli breakfast , then we packed up for the last time, with full wet weather uniform employed. Saying goodbye to the warmth of the hut, we set off. Happily my hip had improved somewhat overnight and the rain had lessened to a mere drizzle for our first leg. The first hour or so we walked over soft volcanic sand dunes and dune grass which stretched out flat as far as the eye could see (not very far in fact due to the mist shrouding the mountains in every direction). The weather worsened, rain pelting my side and face,
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| Touch of blue sky |
giving all the aching pain of an ice cream headache, without the enjoyment of the actual sweetness. Our path turned into a creek bed and it was not long before boots were as wet inside as they were out. We battled onwards hurried by the chill and our dripping noses. We passed some amazing sand sculptures carved by the wind and water creating frozen stone waves striped with pumice. Although still on track and devoutly following the orange markers I got somewhat disoriented with all the cloud. most other days we had the three main volcanoes as markers of our steady progress around the circuit. Today as we passed in front of Ruapehu there was no sign of its shattered peak to indicate how we were going. The track bagan to climb slowly and steadily, in a much kinder way than
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| Lower Tama Lake |
yesterday. However the uphill still caused the pain in my hip to return. Each ridge we crossed the track got slightly higher till we had risen 300 metres without much effort at all. The sun briefly shone, its face warming my wet back and renewing my strength (the chocolate also helped). The ground became a swampy marshland reminding me very much of the dead marshes in Lord of the Rings, appropriate considering we were walking in the shadow of Ngauruhoe, used by Peter Jackson as Mount Doom! Luckily much of the swamp had been fitted with board walk and there were no dead to be seen. We soon reached a junction with a 10 min side trip to Tama Lake. Hoping we had time for the short diversion we headed off into the mist. After what felt rather longer than 10 minutes we reached a sign 'Lower Tama Lake'. Looking around with much confusion, there was no lake to be seen. A fraction of cloud
lifted and far in the distance the outline of a lake appeared. With that excitement over we were soon back on track fording a few streams and passing some miserable trampers going the other way. After crossing the highest point of the day the track stretched out in a beautiful downhill meander. Reaching the bottom of the valley a signpost told us we were one hour from Whakapapa, Hurrah! We entered back into the beech, nice and sheltered from the whipping wind. Five minutes on we were accosted by the magnificent sight of Taranaki Falls thundering 20 metres from the cliff face to a freezing pool. Especially impressive after all the rain the falls burst from the sheer cliff opening out into a fan and crashing to the water below. A good deal of spray told
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| The end is nigh |
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| Taranaki Falls |
us just how cold that water was. Eager to finish and change into dry clothes we walked on, our final section of track on the same that we started. It seemed to go on much longer than the first day (which now seems like an awfully long time ago). The last few flights of stairs were almost the end of my tired leg muscles, but slowly and surely the village appeared out of the rain. Then at long last the sign Tongariro Northern Circuit. We'd done it! With soaring spirits and wet undergarments (the rain I swear!) we jumped for joy at the very place we began this fabulous trek three days earlier.
Despite the rain, the cold, sore hips and legs, despite high hills and raging wind, blistered feet and fireless huts I'd had a magnificent time in one of the oddest landscapes I've ever been in. I have clambered on lahar, scaled the side of an active volcano, seen the land forming and destroying itself, in the same day I have drunk from sparkling springs deep in mountain beech forest. The variety in the land surrounding these three mountains is almost as astonishing as the mountains themselves. If I was one for religion I would say that they rise as snow capped cathedrals, home to the Gods themselves.
Postscript: Would I do it again?
In short, yes. But not for a while and not unless there was a guarantee of better weather. I would love to just do the crossing on a fine day, catching the last views to complete my Tongariro collection.
a cute billy goat tried to ram us through a fence. The bus driver joked that our lollies were fattening and I said that we would hopefully walk them off over the next four days. The bus continued down the Desert Road, a very barren area indeed, the road blocked in by a live firing range and army training areas on either side, all part of the Waiuru Military Camp. We passed the museum with WWII era tanks and old cannons pointing at you as you drive past. We even saw a squad in full kit running across the desert in the shadow of massive national grid power lines, bringing power up from Benmore. Then shrouded peaks emerged and we saw Ruapehu, its top blown open looking to all the world like it had just erupted (aside from the thick snow). In the distance the driver pointed out Ngauruhoe and Tongariro. Ngauruhoe looked like a model volcano, perfect cone, straight sides and huge!
over the mountain like great black rivers of rock. Quickly we reached the bottom of the pass and began our ascent up the 'Devil's Staircase'. And a devil it was, every flight turning my quads to useless lumps of jelly. Despite this we climbed quite fast with stunning views down the valley behind us and up to the volcanic peas on either side. Foolishly making the fatal mistake that the top of where we could see was indeed the top of the pass. It wasn't! At this stage our nice sunny day began to close in, mist rolling over the tops of the mountains. The next section was super flat for a long time, and the fog got so dense we had trouble finding the next track marker at times. Then a sign telling us we were at 1590 metres and we still had to climb to 1890m. 
Said climb began steadily enough then became steeper and more treacherous, the ground covered in loose sand, small rocks that rolled easily underfoot, and slippery clay. The wind and fog were now vicious as we stumbled along a ridge line, totally exposed to the elements, it jst seemed to go up and up and up. Thinking back I'm sure it didn't take as long as it felt to reach the 
highest point at Red Crater, but the freezing wind blasting fog and rain into our faces and threatening to push us over the edge and down a steep crater face made it stretch out endlessly. Eventually we passed the highest point and began a difficult descent down sand-dune ash. We both fell over as you were never sure if there were rocks under the ash that were going to roll. We carried on down and around the edge of Red Crater, catching glimpses down the side into its dormant depths. The smell of sulfur was strong despite the roaring winds. Slowly the weather improved as we got lower, the track becoming a bit more sheltered. The next junction we branched away from the Crossing towards Oturere Hut only 1.5 hours away. The poor day walkers in their inadequate jackets and shorts scurried down in the opposite direction. After hitting a bit of a wall on the 
Whakapapa by lunchtime, in time for our bus home. It feels like this trip has gone rather fast and I will be sad to be leaving such a stark and striking area tomorrow. On the other hand a warm shower and proper bed are calling! Tea time now, rice, sausages, cheese and veges. Then of course the compulsory jelly to finish. Prayers to the weather Gods for tomorrow. how nice to have a fire and warm bed tonight, it is indeed the perfect last night. A game of cards then hopefully a deep sleep to rest wee old legs. Bon Appetit and sweet dreams xxx
